ËËËËËË
Day 4: SAARBURG to TRIER
Today's cycling would be mellow, with walking tours at the start and end of the ride. In the morning, we visited the old Mabilon Bell Foundry in Saarburg, where traditional bell-making techniques and craftsmanship were on display. Afterward, we'd pedal back down the Saar River to the Mosel, and then down the Mosel to the city of Trier for lunch on the Princesse Royal. The afternoon agenda consisted of exploring Trier of foot, once the Roman capital of Germania. This historic city features impressive Roman architecture and well-preserved ruins that showcase its past glory. Total riding distance: 17 miles.
 |
Good morning, Saarburg. |
 |
| An old 2,000 pound bell at the Mabilon foundry. |
The history of the Mabilon bellfounders dates back to the 16th century, manifesting the artistry and skill of master craftsmen and metallurgists who dedicated their lives to this long tradition. These artisans worked with closely-guarded trade secrets, meticulously refining their techniques over generations. Urbanus Mabilon established the Saarburg foundry in 1770, where it would become the family business for over 230 years. Bells weighing up to five tons were produced here, finding homes across Europe and overseas.
 |
Wolfgang Matthes (at right) was our docent, a retired teacher and chairman of the Saarburg Cultural Foundry. |
Visiting the factory museum offered a glimpse into the Mabilon heritage. From the drawing room where bell tones are calculated and shapes carefully designed, to the clay room and workshops, to the foundry hall… Every step reflects an extraordinary level of craftsmanship, culminating in the finished product: a bronze bell with a precise tone and resonance. I came away deeply impressed by the ingenuity required to create such magnificent pieces without modern technology. This was the zenith of the Artisan Age.
The foundry hall is where the bell casting takes place. Here the bell molds are delicately placed in a pit and backfilled with compacted earth. Molten bronze is then directed from the furnace into these buried molds. The compacted earth surrounding them absorbs heat, allowing for an even cooling process that is essential for producing the highest quality bell. After sufficient time has passed for the bronze to harden, artisans dig out the finished bells from their encasements. The realistic simulation setup offered an insightful glimpse into the process.
 |
| The smelting furnace |
On the trail to Trier.
 |
| The Trier Bridge. Foundations in the river were built by the Romans. |
After breaking for lunch aboard the Princesse Royal, Terry and I embarked on a walking tour of Trier, a city steeped in history and charm. With a population of 110,000, it’s the largest town we’ve visited since leaving Metz. Founded in 16 BC by Roman Emperor Augustus, it holds the title of Germany's oldest city and was once one of the four ruling capitals of the Roman Empire during the 3rd and 4th centuries. Over its long existence, there has been a millennium of regime changes: it was seized by the Franks in 459 AD, later becoming part of the Holy Roman Empire before being annexed by France and then Prussia, and finally becoming part of the German Empire in 1871. Today, contemporary buildings blend well with historical landmarks. We explored many key sites in the city, but unfortunately, we missed the Roman amphitheater and imperial baths. With so many things to see in just one afternoon, it's evident that Trier offers more than a half-day visit.
Welcome to Trier
 |
| Part of the wall that once enclosed the city in Roman times. |
 |
| The old Jewish quarter of Trier goes back to 13th century. |
 |
| Porta Nigra |
The Porta Nigra (Black Gate), showcases the Romans’ defensive architecture. Built around 170 AD as part of a wall that encircled the city, it was one of four entrances alongside the Porta Alba (White Gate), Porta Media (Middle Gate), and Porta Inclyta (Famous Gate). These gates regulated access and facilitated trade. Today, only the Porta Nigra remains intact. These ancient structures were not just entrances: they were gateways to commerce, culture, and community in a thriving Roman city.
 |
| Inside Porta Nigra |
 |
| Trier Cathedral (left side) and Church of Our Lady (right side) |
The Trier Cathedral and the Church of Our Lady are connected by a common wall. Originally, this site housed a Roman church founded by Emperor Constantine in 326 AD, marking it as one of the earliest Christian structures in the region. However, by the early 13th century, the southern portion of the cathedral had fallen into disrepair and became unusable. In response, the Archbishop of Trier commissioned French builders to construct what is now the Church of Our Lady. This structure stands as the oldest church built in the French High Gothic style outside of France.
 |
| Karl Marx |
A fifteen-foot bronze statue of Karl Marx has become a focal point of debate since its unveiling in 2018. Gifted by the People's Republic of China to mark the 200th anniversary of Marx's birth in Trier, this statue has sparked significant controversy regarding its acceptance and placement. Marx remains a contentious figure among many Germans, particularly those who lived under the Soviet Union’s communist rule. His co-authorship of the Communist Manifesto laid out revolutionary ideas aimed at transforming society through social change. However, these ideas also led to his expulsion from both Belgium and Germany due to their radical nature. Eventually, he fled to London, where he spent his final years before dying stateless in 1883.
Day 5: TRIER to BERNCASTEL-KUES
The Princesse Royal cast off and cruised down the river first thing in the morning, providing a serene backdrop while we enjoyed breakfast. After our meal, we disembarked at the hamlet of Schweich, eager to begin a ride that took us through miles of scenic vineyards and wine-making hamlets, following the trace of an ancient Roman road. In fact, we pedaled past the ruins of another Roman villa along the way. Our route then took us along the winding, hairpin turns of the Mosel River, where the valley narrows, and the steep slopes incline up to 60-70 degrees (with grapevines growing on them!). We stopped for lunch in Piesport, savoring the local Reisling wine. Refreshed and invigorated, we continued our journey through more vineyards and idyllic hamlets. It was late afternoon when we reached Bernkastel-Kues, where we found the Princesse moored and awaiting our arrival. Total riding distance: 35 miles.
 |
| Roman villa near Longuich. |
Our first stop of the day was the Longuich Roman Villa, a historical site from the 2nd century that was discovered by land surveyors in 1984. Some of the buildings have been excavated and partially reconstructed, allowing us to explore the side wing which served as a spa with hot and cold-water baths, a sweat room, and an intricate heating and plumbing system. These amenities reflect the sophistication that Roman elites sought in their homes (though they lacked cable TV). Much of the sizable estate remains unexcavated.
 |
| Roman villa |
 |
| Riding through vineyards with Susie (left) and Terry. Susie was one of six riders from Chicago. |
 |
| Neumagen Wine Ship |
Terry and I made a pit stop in Neumagen, a quaint village that claims the title of “Germany's Oldest Winemaking Center.” And who could argue? Founded by the Romans, Neumagen served as a waystation on the road from Trier to Koblenz. At the tourism center, we used the public restrooms and then browsed the exhibits showcasing the legacy of winemaking in the area. This is where the famous Neumagen Wine Ship was discovered; an impressive vessel carved from solid stone that was unearthed in 1878 (now on exhibit at a museum in Trier). There is supposedly a 57-foot-long replica of a wine ship moored on the river—but I couldn't locate it (maybe it was on a wine delivery?). Long ago, these rowing ships transported wine barrels up-river into Gaul (France) and other parts of Germania.
 |
| Neumagen |
 |
| Piesport |
By the time we reached the hamlet of Piesport, we had logged 21 miles. Piesport proudly considers itself “Germany's Oldest Winemaking Center” (hmm, like Neumagen?). In fact, the largest Roman wine-press facility north of the Alps is here, partially reconstructed. As Terry and I pedaled into town, a wave of hunger settled in. Our VBT gang of nineteen riders had fragmented well before noon, leaving us to navigate the last stretch with a smaller group—and they were hungry as well. We came upon a restaurant-winery with outdoor dining that could accommodate a party of seven. The views were breathtaking; lush vineyards cascading down steep slopes to the river. We indulged in delicious local fare paired with excellent Riesling wine, savoring each bite and sip with wonderful company. What’s not to like?
 |
| Theresa, Debbie, Majid, and Karin are from the Chicago area and belong to the Arlington Heights Cycling Club. |
 |
| Lisa and her son, Adam, from the granite state of New Hampshire. |
On the trail to Bernkastel-Kues
Bernkastel-Kues, located at the apex of a sweeping bend in the Mosel River, would be our home for two nights. The town began as two separate settlements in the Middle Ages: Bernkastel on the outside of the river bend, and Kues on the inside. A significant change came in 1874 with the completion of a bridge across the river, which enabled access and interaction between the two towns. This paved the way for greater collaboration, and in 1905, the two officially merged into one. Today, Bernkastel-Kues has about 7,000 residents. It’s known for its medieval architecture and lively wine culture.
 |
| Bernkastel-Kues |
After dinner aboard the Princesse Royal, Steffie led several of us on a walking tour of the Kues side of town. As we hiked up steep, narrow residential streets, the appeal of the neighborhood unfolded. Some vintage houses stood weathered and proud, whispering stories from a time long past, while other homes were newer constructions of stylish design. It was during this stroll that we discovered how abruptly the town seemed to end—a stunning transition into vast fields of trellised grapevines stretching out before us. The sight was resplendent, as though time had paused just for us to appreciate it. Sometimes you simply must get off the bike and walk the ground.
Day 6: The EIFEL VALLEY
The objective today was the picturesque Eifel Valley and Maare-Mosel Radweg (MMR), a renowned rails-to-trails bikeway. Our adventure began with a private shuttle to the upper reaches of the Eifel Valley and the spa resort town of Daun. This is where the MMR begins. We pedaled through verdant forests, past ancient volcanic crater lakes and amber fields of wheat. Midway through our ride, we stopped in Gillenfeld for a group lunch hosted by VBT. After refueling, we continued our quick descent through more woods and quaint hamlets before navigating tunnels that added another dimension to the ride. Storm clouds stacked up in the afternoon, threatening rain at any moment. In spite of this, the weather stayed dry long enough for us to complete our journey back to the barge in Bernkastel-Kues. This would be my favorite cycling day of the tour. Total riding distance: 40 miles.
 |
| The MMR |
We jumped on the MMR in Daun, the heart of Eifel Volcanic Nature Park. The region boasts a multitude of ancient volcanoes and mineral hot springs, the maars (volcanic crater lakes) being especially inviting, with their deep, crystal-clear waters. As we rode through this area, it was hard to ignore how nature has reclaimed this tumultuous volcanic past. The once fiery lava flows are now blanketed with lush forests, babbling brooks, and rolling meadows, the last eruption occurring about 13,000 years ago.
 |
| One of many maars. |
 |
| Eifel Barn Café |
For the mid-day break, the whole gang converged on the Eifel Barn Café in the village of Gillenfeld. The restaurant is in an old, refurbished barn constructed from lava rock, which added rustic charm. As we parked our bikes, we were greeted by the amiable owners, Sigrid and Leo Lenerz, who welcomed us into their courtyard. They served up a delicious and hearty family-style meal, each dish made from locally grown or raised ingredients. It was as if your German grandmother was cooking in the kitchen—okay, if you had a German grandmother. But you get the picture.
 |
| The MMR |
The bikeway was originally the Maare-Mosel Railway, constructed in 1909 to provide service from Daun to the Mosel River. However, usage declined significantly in the latter half of the 20th century, and in 2011, the decision was made to remove the rails entirely. This paved the way for a new purpose: a bikeway that would breathe new life into this historic corridor. Cyclists can now traverse the old brick tunnels and bridges that have stood for over a century; be treated to beautiful scenery; long, sweeping turns; fast straightaways. I had a big smile on my face for the entire ride.
 |
| Theresa and Debbie having fun. |
 |
| Into the tunnel... |
 |
| The opulent Schloss Lieser Hotel. |
 |
| Bernkastel Market Plaza |
The Princesse Royal’s kitchen was closed for the evening, which sparked an idea: a date night with Terry. I selected a place called Schützenhaus, which had garnered superb online reviews. Getting there was a mini-adventure in itself, navigating the narrow, medieval streets of old Bernkastel, past public squares with 14th-century ambience, until we were ascending a steep, paved path with innumerable stairs. It climbed up a precipitous slope of grapevines whose roots were anchored firmly in the slate ground. At last, we reached Schützenhaus, perched almost 300 feet above town. Known as the “Balcony of Bernkastel,” it offers sweeping views of the river—an idyllic backdrop for our dinner date. Icing on the cake after a fun day of riding.
 |
| Mike & Anne from Minneapolis. Out on the town. |
 |
| Schützenhaus restaurant. Can't beat the view. |
Day 7: BERNCASTEL-KUES to COCHEM
This was it. We cast off early the next morning, savoring breakfast as we cruised leisurely down the river. The weather was mostly cloudy with a chance of showers later in the day. At the dramatically-Baroque town of Traben-Trarbach, we disembarked with our bikes and began what would be our "Last Ride." Following the river trail, we pedaled through the hamlets of Pünderich; Ballay; Zell; Beilstein. Grapevines covered the steep slopes on both sides of the valley like a lush carpet. This section of the Mosel is particularly winding, doubling back on itself in tight goosenecks again and again. Although it's only six miles between Traben-Trarbach and Bullay as the crow flies, following the river stretches this distance to sixteen. It was through here when it began to rain. We paused to don rain gear, and then pressed on through intermittent showers. In Beilstein, the rain stopped—and so did our ride. We were done! To celebrate, we ordered beer and a light lunch at an outdoor tavern. Afterward, we boarded the Princesse Royal for a final cruise down to Cochem, where festive merriment awaited us tonight. Total riding distance: 30 miles.
 |
| Chris from Fort Collins. Ready to roll. |
 |
| Ferryman's house in Pünderich. |
Our first official snack break (which is wherever the VBT van parks with all the goodies) took place in Pünderich, a small hamlet of 800 residents. Many of the buildings here date back to the 16th and 17th centuries, offering a glimpse into a time long past. The name Pünderich is derived from an ancient Celtic word meaning “Ferryman's Place.” For centuries, a ferry has operated here, taking advantage of the hamlet’s strategic location. If one were traveling on foot or horseback, fording the river at this point and crossing the narrow isthmus of a very long gooseneck could take seven miles off your journey—a handy shortcut indeed. After our break, Axel kindly led some of us on a walking tour through the old part of the village. We marveled at the original Town Hall that was built in 1548, and the lopsided Ferryman’s House, which appeared even older. While newer homes have emerged—mostly vacation homes catering to Europeans seeking tranquility—the essence of Pünderich remains deeply rooted in its historical allure.
 |
| Axel and Terry explore Pünderich |
 |
| Susie and Suzanne in Pünderich. They were college roommates, and have kept in touch over the years and gone on many adventures together. |
 |
| The Black Cat of Zell. |
 |
| Here comes the rain... |
We were somewhere around Bullay when it began to rain. Earlier, we had taken a pit stop in Zell under gray skies, the air replete with what lay ahead. As we rode on, it had become darker and cooler, casting a reflective mood over our group, which was spread out along the trail for a mile or more. Then the sky began spitting random raindrops, like warning shots. Terry and I exchanged glances as we stopped to put on our rain jackets, questioning whether we would really need them. The answer came soon enough—yes! It started as a downpour, but soon subsided to light, intermittent showers that danced playfully off our helmets and cycling glasses. Riding in the rain is quite enjoyable if you can stay warm and dry. On the river up ahead, an enormous cargo barge materialized out of the mist, lumbering upstream in the rain. Life doesn’t stop for summer showers.
 |
| Beilstein, the end of the ride. We logged about 190 miles total. |
Our ride concluded in Beilstein, a quaint village that has been coined the “Sleeping Beauty of the Mosel.” Its well-preserved historical buildings captivate all who visit, making it a great place to explore. Overlooking the village are the ruins of Metternich Castle, dating back to the 12th century and resilient despite being sacked and destroyed by the pesky French in 1689. Descending upon a local tavern, we celebrated with beer and appetizers on the outdoor terrace, where everybody was in high spirits and sharing stories. Once our thirst was slaked, Terry and I explored the narrow streets and hidden corners of Beilstein, each turn revealing more of its Sleeping Beauty vibe. In the late afternoon, we all boarded the Princesse Royal for a scenic cruise down to Cochem, where dinner festivities awaited us.
 |
| Mike, Anne and Chris say "Cheers!" |
Cruising the river, Beilstein to Cochem.
 |
| Cochem |
The first thing that catches your eye when visiting Cochem is the Imperial Castle, majestically perched 300+ feet above the town. The original fortress was erected a thousand years ago, only to be destroyed in 1689—yes, by the pesky French again. In spite of this, a new and much grander castle was constructed on the site in the late 19th century, to which we had a spectacular view from our mooring. It was a Friday night; the storm clouds were breaking up, casting an ethereal glow over the castle. People were out strolling along the waterfront while elegant dinner-cruise barges plied the river. Despite Cochem's modest population of just 5,000, it felt much larger and remarkably vibrant—the perfect place to wind up the tour.
We had a festive dinner party aboard the Princesse that night, a fitting end to our memorable time together. King Richard worked his culinary magic in the kitchen, crafting dishes that delighted our senses. As wine flowed and stories were told, laughter infused the air, creating an atmosphere of warmth and camaraderie. Becky had made a fine recovery from her crash on the second day of our tour; thankfully, she hadn’t sustained a concussion, and her arm was out of the sling now. Her resilience was inspiring. There were champagne toasts and kind words from Steffie and Axel—then more champagne to keep the merriment going.
 |
| The rowdy table. Clockwise next to Terry is George & Kathy from Atlanta; Tim & Karen from Denver; Becky & Burt from Shepherdstown WV, and some guy in a Hawaiian shirt. |
 |
| A Friday night dinner cruise passing through... |
River barge ballet...
In the morning, we packed our things with a sense of bittersweet longing. Once everyone had disembarked, we gathered for a group photo to capture the moment. Final hugs and handshakes were exchanged; it had certainly been a blast! Steffie offered Terry and me a lift to the train station, ensuring that even as this chapter closed, our journey would carry on. Next stop: Berlin.
 |
| The whole gang... |
No comments:
Post a Comment