Our Mosel River bike tour had concluded in Cochem, Germany, capping off a remarkable scenic ride through France, Luxembourg, and Germany, a journey brimming with vineyards, verdant forests, and farmland stretching to the horizon. We pedaled through dozens of hamlets and visited ruins of ancient Roman villas that whispered tales of history. But in Cochem, Ter and I parted ways with our beloved VBT biker gang to start a new chapter. Steffie—one of our VBT trip leaders—drove us to the train station. Destination: Berlin. Terry’s brother, Dan, lived in Berlin, along with his wife Bonnie, and their precious one-month-old daughter, Lillian (newest member of the Mulcahy Clan!). This was the final leg of our vacation. Five days. Naturally, we looked forward to visiting with Dan and Bonnie, but we also wanted to indulge in some sightseeing; enjoy a local Pilsner in a genuine German biergarten. And with Dan and Bonnie as our guides, we already had boots on the ground. Perfekt!
WELCOME to BERLIN
The 400-mile train ride from Cochem to Berlin took us seven hours. We changed trains in Koblenz, which allowed us to stretch our legs and grab a quick bite before continuing. On the Koblenz-Berlin leg, we made stops in the cities of Bonn, Cologne, and Hanover. When we disembarked at the underground Gesundbrunnen Station in Berlin, it was a short walk to our hotel. Our room overlooked the sprawling Humboldthain Park, where remnants of an old concrete bunker and anti-aircraft battery from World War II were visible through the trees. This would be home for the next five nights (the hotel, not the bunker), its prime location putting us within easy walking distance of both the train station and Dan and Bonnie’s apartment. Very convenient.
Cochem train station, heading to Berlin.
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| Potsdamer Platz commercial district in Berlin. |
It didn’t take us long to realize that Berlin is a big city—the largest in the EU, in fact. Its rail transportation system operates like clockwork, showcasing German efficiency at getting around—though I think Ter and I rode it a couple of times before her brother, Dan, pointed out that we had to BUY A TICKET before boarding (oops). Tourists. Anyway, Berlin has been the capital of Germanic empires and nations since 1417, evolving into a hub for science; art; education; philosophy. By the 1920s, it was the third-largest city in the world—a testament to its significance on both European and global stages (Albert Einstein was living and working here when he was awarded the 1921 Nobel Prize for Physics). After enduring the dark days of World War II and the Cold War, which divided it both physically and ideologically, Berlin is thriving once again.
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| Neptunbrunnen |
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| National Library |
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| Victoria |
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| Dan & Bonnie's street. |
Dan and Bonnie’s apartment is in the Gesundbrunnen neighborhood, an easy walk from our hotel. They both work at the National Museum of Natural History, but during our visit, they were on family leave, embracing the new role as parents to four-week-old Lillian. It was a joy to watch Auntie Terry—who loves all babies—coddle the newest member of the Mulcahy family. Time to take the baby for a walk? No problem. Their apartment sits on a quiet residential street, and a fifteen-minute stroll leads you to the Panke River, where an urban paradise of grassy riverbanks and wooded paths await. The Panke reflects Berlin's commitment to open spaces—one-third of the city’s area is comprised of public parks, forested greenbelts, rivers and lakes.
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| Panke River |
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| A scenic walk near Dan & Bonnie's apartment. |
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| Out for a Sunday stroll. |
On Sunday, we all stopped in at the Prater Biergarten, a revered establishment that has been a
fixture of Berlin since 1837. Back then, Prater was a mile out in the
countryside, a relaxing place to escape from the city for the new Industrial Age working class. But as
Berlin grew and expanded, the beer garden was eventually surrounded by an urban
landscape. It was larger than I was expecting. Scores of bench tables were spread
out under a canopy of mature trees. It was a sunny afternoon, and laughter and
chatter from happy drinkers filled the air while children played nearby. Sitting
down at a table, we joined in the jollity. The beer selection on tap was impressive,
but by far, pilsners reign supreme among Berliners. Wiesen (wheat) beer is also
very popular in the summer. And just like that, we were unwinding and enjoying
life amidst friends and family, under the leafy boughs of an authentic German
beer garden. Prost an alle!
Prater Biergarten
It was Terry’s birthday—which often falls during summer vacation—and I had arranged for a Birthday Bicycle Tour, thinking it would be an excellent way to see the sights. I was planning to tie birthday balloons to her bike for that extra festive touch, but when I suggested it, she firmly said, “No way.” I decided not to push it. She’s the Birthday Girl. So, while Dan and Bonnie caught up on their much-needed sleep, Terry and I hopped on the train to Alexanderplatz for a day of sightseeing on two wheels. Our tour guide, John, was British but knew Berlin facts and history astonishingly well. He made every landmark come alive with stories that kept us engaged as we pedaled through the streets and public squares. It was one of those days where everything just clicked—the sun was shining, the city was effervescent, and Birthday Girl and I created memories that would last long after the cake had been eaten. Though it would’ve been nice to have balloons. I should have insisted on the balloons.
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In Brandenburg Square with the Birthday Girl.
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Street art.
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| Brandenburg Gate |
The Brandenburg Gate is one of Germany's most iconic landmarks, symbolizing Berlin's rich history. Built in 1791 during the reign of King Frederick William II of Prussia, this neoclassical monument stands at the main entrance into the old city. Its architectural grandeur has made it a focal point for locals and tourists. It suffered significant damage during World War II and became emblematic of division during the Cold War when the Berlin Wall blocked access for nearly thirty years. Today, after reunification in 1990 and extensive restoration efforts, the Brandenburg Gate stands accessible to all.
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| Alexanderplatz and the Television Tower. |
The Fernsehturm (Television Tower) rises majestically above Alexanderplatz to an impressive height of 1,207 feet. Completed in 1969 by the East German government, the Fernsehturm was originally built as a radio/television broadcasting facility and served as a proud symbol of Communist power. From the start, an interesting design quirk gave rise to a unique narrative surrounding the tower. When sunlight hits the Fernsehturm's tiled stainless-steel dome at just the right angle, it creates a reflection that resembles a Christian cross. This unintentional phenomenon led Berliners to affectionately nickname it “The Pope's Revenge," manifesting their belief that the luminous cross symbolized divine retaliation against the Communist regime’s removal of crosses from churches throughout East Berlin.
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| Der Führerbunker |
We had been riding around the civic center for a while when our tour guide, John, led us to a gravel parking lot behind a row of multi-story commercial buildings. We got off our bikes and settled onto a low, wooden fence, where John began to tell us a story that echoed through time. It was April 1945, he started, and Adolf Hitler and his top generals were hunkered down in the Führerbunker: an elaborate concrete bunker thirty feet underground. They were completely surrounded by the enemy; Russian tanks were rumbling into the shattered city, much of which lay in rubble. Only then did Hitler finally admit that all was lost. He married his longtime girlfriend, Eva Braun, on April 29th in a simple ceremony. Forty hours later, they committed suicide. And where was this bunker where these events unfolded? John pointed to the ground beneath us—we were sitting on it. Yes, Hitler’s final resting place is now an unassuming gravel parking lot, devoid of grandeur or memorials, nor monuments or souvenir stands—just a simple sign placed discreetly to prevent it from becoming a neo-Nazi pilgrimage site.
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| Holocaust Memorial |
A short pedal away from the Führerbunker stands another somber landmark: the Holocaust Memorial, officially known as the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. Covering a city block (5 acres), this poignant site features 2,711 concrete slabs, or stelae, arranged in a grid pattern. Each stela is about seven feet long and three feet wide, with heights ranging from one to fifteen feet. The design is intentional; while organized in rows at right angles, the slabs are set slightly askew to create an unsettling effect that prompts reflection. The Memorial was inaugurated on May 10th, 2005—sixty years after the end of World War II in Europe—marking a significant moment for remembrance and serves as a stark warning against hatred and intolerance in our society today.
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| Remnants of the wall. |
The Berlin Wall stands as a compelling symbol of the Cold War, which emerged immediately after World War II. Built by Communist East Germany in 1961, the wall aimed to stop the exodus of East German citizens fleeing to West Berlin, and incorporated guard towers, open kill zones, beds of nails, and razor wire to deter escape attempts. The East German government framed the wall's construction as a defensive measure against the "evil West," calling it the Anti-Fascist Protection Rampart. In contrast, West Berliners labeled it the "Wall of Shame," viewing it as a violation of freedom and human rights. Today, only a few sections of the wall remain for historical context: a reminder of a divided city and an era marked by ideological conflict.
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| Checkpoint Charlie |
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| Checkpoint Charlie in 1961. |
In 1989, civil unrest swept through the Eastern Bloc countries, leading to the collapse of several Communist regimes. Amid this tumultuous period, a bizarre incident took place when an East German bureaucrat mistakenly announced that all East Berliners could visit West Berlin, effective immediately. Although false, his proclamation sparked a spontaneous reaction and East Germans flocked to the Wall, joined by West Germans on the other side. The few gates, once symbols of division, were suddenly swarmed, and overwhelmed guards, perhaps caught up in the moment's excitement, allowed them to pass. This unexpected opening led to an impromptu celebration, filled with joy and relief as families and friends reunited after decades of separation. In the weeks that followed, souvenir hunters chipped away parts of the Wall as mementos. The official demolition process began in June of 1990, and German reunification was formally realized later that year.
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Berlin Wall in 1960s (Brandenburg Gate in background).
East Berlin on the left, West Berlin on the right. |
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| Tearing down the wall, 1989. |
Ostalgie is a term that combines the German words "Ost" (east) and "Nostalgie" (nostalgia) that captures the sentiment felt by many who grew up in communist East Germany. Coined by East German actor/comedian Uwe Steimle in 1992, Ostalgie reflects a longing for certain aspects of life during the Cold War era, particularly among those who struggled to adapt to the rapid changes following reunification. For many East Germans, Ostalgie served as a coping device, allowing them to retain experiences, memories, and values that were seen as incompatible with those of West Germans. In the years following reunification, Germany faced growing pains as it navigated its new identity, including economic disparities and cultural clashes between East and West.
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| Gehen |
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| Geh nicht! |
The Ampelmänn pedestrian traffic signal light has become a beloved symbol of Berlin, especially cherished by those with ties to former East Germany. Before reunification in 1990, the two German nations used different designs for their pedestrian signals: West Germany featured a generic human figure, while East Germany used a portly male figure wearing a hat, known as the Ampelmänn. After the Berlin Wall fell, there were attempts to standardize traffic symbols by replacing the Ampelmänn with the West German stick figures. However, this sparked a backlash from East Berliners who fiercely protested. Their passionate efforts led the city government to back off. Today, the Ampelmänn has transcended its original function to become one of the most popular symbols in souvenir shops throughout the city.
Another East German relic that has achieved cult status in Berlin is the Trabant automobile, commonly known as the Trabi. Built in East Germany from 1957 to 1991, it saw very few style and technical upgrades during its 30+ years in production (they added a fuel gauge in 1985). Designed as an affordable car for the working class, acquiring a new Trabi was no small feat—prospective buyers faced a 10-year waiting list. It had a 600cc two-cycle engine that required you to add motor oil to the gasoline at the filling station. The quality was not so good; it was loud, slow, and poorly designed, leading many to refer to it as a “sparkplug with a roof.” Because of these shortcomings, the Trabi became emblematic of East Germany's economic woes and the broader collapse of the communist Eastern Bloc. And guess what? Now the Trabi has found a new life as a sought-after collectible among vintage car enthusiasts!
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U2 immortalized the Trabant in their 1992-93 Zoo TV world tour, using
the cars as mobile stage lighting that strafed across the stage. |
The next day, Terry and I set out to do more reconnoitering. We took the train to Alexanderplatz and walked to the Nicolas Quarter for lunch along the Spree River, which flows through the heart of the city. The sun was warm. The sky was blue, festooned with cotton ball clouds. After our meal, we boarded a river barge for a sightseeing tour down the Spree, gliding past stately government buildings along both banks. There was the Reichstag and the ultra-modern Chancellery and National Library, interspersed with grassy open spaces. Around the bend, on the right bank, we came upon Europacity: a new commercial/urban center with state-of-the-art buildings that embody Berlin's innovative spirit. Finally, we disembarked near a concert hall and wandered through wooded pathways in the verdant Tiergarten. The tranquility of this lush oasis of forests, ponds, and brooks provided a serene conclusion to our day—an afternoon filled with exploration and discovery with my sweetheart in Berlin.
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| Berlin Cathedral on the Spree River. |
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| The Reichstag: seat of the National Parliament. |
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The Bundeskanzleramt (Federal Chancellery): executive offices and residence of
the Chancellor of Germany. |
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| The National Library (left) and Chancellery (right). |
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The 11-story Cube is part of the innovative Europacity development project on the Spree.
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| Europacity |
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| Tiergarten |
The Tiergarten's origins date back to 1527 when it was established as a private hunting ground for the Prince of Brandenburg. The lush forests and glens provided an ideal setting for hunting deer and other wild animals (Tiergarten translates to "Animal Garden"). However, as Berlin expanded over the next two centuries, hunting on the property diminished—it was no longer out in the countryside. That’s when the Prussian king, Frederick the Great, opened the 500-acre parcel to everyone, marking a shift from exclusive use to public leisure space. Frederick implemented many landscape enhancements: flowerbeds; pathways in geometric patterns; mazes; ornamental ponds; sculptures and fountains. These developments established it as a recreational area within the city by the end of the 18th century.
World War II took a toll on the Tiergarten. The park’s forests were chopped down to provide wood for heating homes during Berlin’s harsh winters. Additionally, many acres were converted into potato fields and vegetable gardens to address food shortages. In the 1950s, West Germany invested heavily in its rehabilitation, planting a quarter million trees over a ten-year period. Following German reunification, further improvements enhanced both accessibility and aesthetics.
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| The Victory Column stands in the heart of the Tiergarten, reaching a height of 220 feet. Inaugurated in 1873. The column is adorned with a golden statue of Victoria, the Roman goddess of victory. |
Our last afternoon was spent with Dan at the Berlin Museum of Natural History, which is where he works now. Terry and I were there for a VIP tour. But first, allow me to provide some backstory. As some of you already know, Dan and Bonnie are research scientists. Dan, a herpetologist, hunts for rare snakes in the jungles of Myanmar when he’s not in the office. Meanwhile, Bonnie, a German entomologist, scales tall trees in Madagascar's rainforest to study ant colonies. Gnarly. They met years ago while both were working at the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History in Washington DC, where their shared passion for science and research sparked a connection. Fast forward to 2020: Bonnie accepted a job offer at the Berlin Museum of Natural History and moved across the pond. A year later, Dan followed, landing a position that needed his expertise in state-of-the-art DNA sequencing (Berlin’s gain, Smithsonian’s loss). They got an apartment. Got married. And just a month ago, they welcomed their daughter Lillian into the world. Two scientists and a baby. At any rate, Dan met us at the museum (he was still on family leave) and the tour commenced.
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| Museum für Naturkunde, est. 1810. |
The museum was founded in 1810, back when Berlin was the capital of Prussia. It boasts over 30 million specimens in the fields of zoology, paleontology, and mineralogy. Among its highlights are the Giraffatitan skeleton—the largest mounted dinosaur in the world—and a well-preserved Archaeopteryx specimen that provides insight into avian evolution. The museum also features specimens from notable German explorations, including the Valdivia Expedition (1898–99), the South Pole Expedition (1901–03), the Sunda Expedition (1929–31), and exhibits on extinct species such as the quagga, huia, and Tasmanian tiger.
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| Tyrannosaurus Rex |
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| Triceratops |
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| Dan's laboratory. |
With Professor Dan as your tour guide, you're in for a treat. His passion for natural history and storytelling brings every exhibit to life. Years ago, he gave us a special tour of the Smithsonian, a visit we’ll never forget. Now we were embarking on a backstage tour of the Berlin museum. Beyond the locked doors posted “No Public Access”, we wandered through quiet hallways, past private offices, scientific contraptions (a time machine?), laboratories, and vast rooms brimming with meticulously cataloged specimens.
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Dan elaborates on the workings of the new Compound Stacker 2, the latest
addition to the lab. It catalogs and stores thousands of samples at -20° C. |
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| In the specimen archives, there's a feeling that you're being watched. |
Ter and I took a taxi to the Berlin airport at dawn, filled with rumination after twenty days of travel. We were flying home. The trip had been a blast, truly extraordinary: Paris; Metz; cycling down the picturesque Mosel River Valley. Along the way, we forged new friendships that added depth to our experiences. Visiting Dan and Bonnie in Berlin further reinforced the idea that travel is as much about connections as it is about exploring new places.
