Paris to Berlin (part 2)

After three nights in Paris, we settle into our cozy hotel in Metz for Bastille Day, anticipating good cheer and merriment for the French holiday. And vino. Don’t forget the vino. Hangover or not (probably not), we will then embark on the next leg of our trip, boarding an elegant river barge for a week-long cycling tour down the Mosel River. The bike-and-barge excursion would be the main event of our vacation, where pedaling along European backroads was in the cards. In the meantime, it was time to indulge in local cuisine, and maybe even participate in a lively game of pétanque with the town residents. Vive la France!

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BASTILLE DAY in METZ

We spent most of the day walking all over town, soaking in the sights and sounds. A gentle breeze accompanied us as we strolled along the placid Moselle River, where swans and geese glided gracefully across the water. As we meandered, local townsfolk were busy preparing for the upcoming Bastille Day celebration. A stage was being set up in the plaza of the public market, promising an atmosphere filled with music and festivities. The sunny, warm weather seemed to enhance everyone's spirits. Each block we walked revealed a new corner of this vibrant town, reminding us of the simplicity of wandering with no destination in mind.

The town of Metz reflects the changing cultures and powers over time. Originally a Celtic settlement, it became a vital Gallo-Roman garrison city and later the realm of Frankish and Germanic dynasties. Its strategic location led to frequent disputes: annexed by France; seized by Prussia; bequeathed to Germany—until France regained control in 1918. The cycle continued as Germany captured it again in 1940, only to lose it back to France four years later. Today, it stands quintessentially French, while still bearing strong influences of German culture due to its location and history. The centerpiece of town undoubtedly remains the Gothic-style Saint Stephen Cathedral, renowned for its magnificent flying buttresses. But it is also the economic heart of the Lorraine region and thrives as a college town with two universities. This fusion of history and contemporary life makes Metz an interesting place. 

Saturday morning at the farmer's market.

     Saint Stephen Cathedral

Construction of Saint Stephen Cathedral began around 1280 and would take two centuries to complete. It boasts the largest expanse of stained-glass windows in the world, with many of the original pieces created by the esteemed glassmaker, Hermann Münster (I’m not making this up). Ongoing renovations have been necessary to preserve these exquisite artworks for future generations. Notably, in the 1960s, two large stained-glass windows were replaced with new creations by celebrated Cubist artist Marc Chagall. 

Main entrance to Saint Stephen Cathedral

Stained glass windows by Marc Chagall

Okay, so nobody calls it “Bastille Day” here in France. To the French, it is “La Fête Nationale” (National Day) or simply “Le Quatorze Juillet” (14 July)—the anniversary of the Storming of the Bastille royal fortress on July 14th, 1789. It was a pivotal moment in the French Revolution. Today, people celebrate with vibrant energy and pomp, enjoying traditional Storm-the-Bastille staples like baguette sandwiches, wine, lentil soup, ham and cheese galettes, wine, Salade Lyonnaise with Beef Bourguignon and… wine. And don’t forget the Bal de Pompiers (Firemen’s Ball), where a fire station will open its doors for an all-night soirée. Firefighters, in uniform, serve up food and drinks while live bands keep spirits high. Terry and I spent our evenings at outdoor cafes, where the atmosphere was filled with laughter and the clinking of glasses. On the night of our arrival, a band played until midnight. But on the following night, the 14th, music throbbed continuously until close to dawn, echoing off the side of Saint Stephen's Cathedral and into our window. The later it got, the younger the crowd. So, yeah. The French know how to party. 

All the cafes were dog friendly.

     Sunset on Garnison Temple

BIKE & BARGE TOUR:  Day 1

Bike-and-barge trips have become popular in Europe. An ingenious concept, it combines river cruising with cycling, where your lodging floats down the river and is waiting for you at the end of each cycling day. After considerable research, we settled on the Mosel River for its intimacy compared to the busier Danube and Rhine tours. The Mosel’s serene beauty and quaint villages just seemed to click. And I was stoked to find two open spots remaining on Vermont Bike Tours’ Mosel trip. The dates fit our vacation window. We jumped on it.

Our ride's here.

We arrived at the river barge, Princesse Royal, at its mooring at one o’clock sharp. And no sooner had we stowed our gear in our cabin than it began to rain—a gentle patter that quickly escalated into a steady downpour. As we watched from the covered deck, more passengers arrived, scrambling with laughter and urgency. Our Vermont Bike Tour leaders, Axel and Steffie, hustled to bring everyone aboard along with their baggage. Even as we finally shoved off into the river's embrace, the rain continued to fall. What a way to begin a cycling tour! 

All aboard

Off to a good start.

In France, the river is the “Moselle,” and in Germany it’s the "Mosel." Either way, it begins its 330-mile journey in the Vosges Mountains of eastern France, flowing north through the verdant Lorraine region into Luxembourg and Germany before merging with the Rhine River. We would be covering about 160 of those winding river miles by bike or barge, starting from Metz, France, and ending at Cochem, Germany. 

The Princesse Royal

As we cruised down the river, everyone congregated in the salon, where introductions were made. Axel and Steffie, our VBT trip leaders, took center stage and walked us through the details and protocols of our trip. They were German. We were their nineteen clients, all American, all eager to start pedaling. A few miles downriver from Metz, we disembarked for a final bike-fitting (measurements and sizing had all been done ahead of time via e-mail). It was late afternoon, the rain had stopped, and we were all able to burn off a quick, 8-mile warm-up ride down the river trail. The bikes passed muster flawlessly, and we found the Princesse Royal moored to the bank in the quiet countryside near Thionville. It was cocktail hour in the salon, then an exquisite dinner. Afterwards, at dusk, the storm clouds began to disperse. Better weather tomorrow? Maybe. But we are all in, one way or the other.

Day 2:  THIONVILLE to REMICH

After breakfast, everyone gathered in the dining room, dressed in our riding gear. Axel and Steffie went over the day's ride in detail—this would be our daily routine every morning. Axel used a whiteboard to sketch out a basic map of the route, and we also had it downloaded onto our phones via the Ride-GPS app for easy navigation. He would join us on the ride, while Steffie drove the support van—duties that they would trade off each day. Today’s ride would take us inland through rolling farmland, where we would pause for lunch in the village of Rodemack. After our meal, we’d ride back to the Mosel River and follow it to Remich, Luxembourg, where the Princesse Royal would be moored for the night. Total riding distance: 32 miles.

The morning briefing.

Entrance to Rodemack.

If you were to rate all the prettiest French villages on a scale of 1 to 10, Rodemack would score a 15. But don’t take my word for it: this hamlet consistently gets voted as one of the most beautiful in France. It’s a hidden gem nestled in the enchanting Land of Three Borders, just four miles from Luxembourg and twelve miles from Germany. Its history dates to 12th century lords of Luxembourg, and a castle once crowned the hill above the village. Terry and I rode down the cobbled streets, captivated by its charm. We found our group in the sunny town square, breaking for lunch—an experience made delightful by Steffie’s culinary offerings from her van (she and Axel whipped up an excellent lunch). It was here that we became acquainted with our riding mates, who had been complete strangers just 24 hours prior. Afterward, we wandered through Rodemack's quiet streets (there are only 1,200 residents), each turn revealing another pictorial view in a provincial setting. It would be easy to spend more time here. But we had more riding to do. 

     Main Street in Rodemack.

Stopping for lunch.

Rodemack Castle

I have to come clean: we opted for e-bikes on this trip. Yeah, I know. All my purist cycling friends are throwing rotten vegetables at me right now. It wasn’t the original plan, but several people we know strongly recommended it. There were the steep grades to consider, and the prospect of cycling six days in a row... Don’t make it a death ride, they said. You’re on vacation! But it didn’t take us long to realize this tour was not a ride in the Alps; most of it was close to flat, or gentle hills. Riding an e-bike almost felt like cheating. Almost. One redeeming value that I leveraged was being able to lag behind to take photos (or a Ron Barry side trip), then sprint to catch up without much effort. Overall, the ride wasn’t necessarily easier—it was more flexible. That’s my story, and I’m sticking to it.  

On the trail to Remich.

Axel was responsible for developing the route maps used in the Ride-GPS app. It involved him previewing the entire route by bike, plotting GPS coordinates and landmarks to establish waypoints, and then converting navigational prompts into voice instructions. The end result was incredibly accurate (I had to try extremely hard to get lost). My favorite prompt was “Turn right at the corner with the baguette vending machine.” Yes... A fresh, warm baguette at the pull of a lever. 

The 11th-century hilltop castle of the Dukes of Lorraine. 

A vintner's estate near Remich, Luxemburg. The Romans established the first vineyards in
the Mosel Valley and founded the cities of Metz and Trier. These areas became centers for
a thriving Gallo-Roman culture that persisted for centuries. Today, this region is recognized
as Germany's oldest winegrowing area.

For our first official post-ride happy hour, Steffie and Axel
present us with a bottle of Killepitsch, a premium 84-proof
herbal liqueur from Germany. Bottoms up.

The PRINCESSE ROYAL

The Princesse Royal is not your grandfather’s potato barge. No. It embodies a unique blend of elegance and functionality that makes it a stand-out on the river. Dutch-owned and flagged, this magnificent vessel spans 203 feet in length, with a beam of 24 feet and a draft of 5.3 feet. It has a powerful diesel engine. Inside, the rich mahogany details create an atmosphere of elegance and warmth. A piano graces the salon. There is a full galley where all the meals are prepared. Below deck, you will find sixteen well-appointed passenger cabins. Oh, I almost forgot—there is also a heated spa on the stern deck. 

The Crew…

Jan: captain

Ronnier: first mate

King Richard: master chef

Anita: purser, bartender, and various secret duties

Therese: hostess, server, and housekeeper

The salon on the main deck.

Our cabin

Cap'n Jan on the bridge.

First mate Ronnier guides the Princesse into a river lock.

King Richard working his magic in the galley.

Day 3:  REMICH to SAARBURG

We started the day on a down note—one in our group, Becky, had been injured on the ride yesterday. She had clipped a curb in the afternoon and gone to the pavement hard. Steffie drove her to the ER, where she was examined for a possible concussion; they x-rayed her injured arm and knee. Nothing serious, but her arm was now in a sling. Though it weighed heavily on us, we rallied together in support of Becky’s recovery, hoping she'd be able to rejoin us soon. 

Today's ride was divided into two distinct parts. In the morning, we would pedal over the Remich Bridge to the German side of the Mosel River and explore the ruins of an ancient Roman villa. Afterwards, we would take the river trail down to Nittel and hop aboard the Princesse Royal for a scenic lunch cruise on the bow deck. The second part of the ride would begin in Wasserbillig, where we would disembark and pedal down the Mosel River to Konz. At Konz, we would turn south and ride up the Saar River Valley to the gorgeous town of Saarburg, where we had an afternoon wine-tasting appointment to keep. Saarburg is where the Princesse Royal would meet us for the night. Total riding distance: 23 miles. 

The morning pre-ride meeting. Besides Terry and me, our group consisted of riders from Colorado (3), Minnesota (2), Illinois (5), Georgia (2), Florida (1), West Virginia (2), and New Hampshire (2).

Remains of Roman villa in hamlet of Nennig. 

The Roman Villa of Nennig was our first stop, an archeological site rich in history. It was uncovered by chance in 1852 when a peasant dug a pit in his garden, exposing the ruins that have since captivated historians and visitors alike. The villa is most renowned for its stunning floor mosaics, which have survived remarkably well with the passage of time. Comprised of over three million tiles, these intricate designs are considered one of the most important relics of their kind north of the Alps. Research indicates the villa was founded in the 1st or 2nd century and was occupied for at least 200 years. It included a large residential building—likely equipped with heating—alongside two spacious side wings that served as guest apartments, all connected to the main structure by elegant porticos. A large bathhouse and an impressive 800-foot-long garden portico further enhanced its grandeur. The villa’s opulence suggested that wealthy and highly esteemed Romans once called it home, and strolling around the grounds allowed us to ponder their life on the Germanian frontier.

A scale model of what the villa might have looked like.

The manor’s reception room floor covers 1,700 square feet and is made with three million small tiles. During restoration, each tile had to be carefully removed and documented. The floor was then leveled, and the tiles were meticulously grouted back into position.

Cycling along the Mosel River.

Steffie's wonderful snack wagon.

     

A lunch cruise down the river.

The Ingel Column. Erected around 250 AD as a burial monument to the Secundinii family,
who were prosperous Roman cloth merchants in Germania.

Saarburg

Our group set a good pace, and we arrived in Saarburg well before the Princesse Royal. After parking our bikes, Axel led us on foot to the Wagner Winery, a stately residence that welcomed us with Old World charm. The tables nestled in a shady yard afforded a peaceful setting to which we had all to ourselves. As we settled in, Christianne Wagner, a Master Sommelier and part of the esteemed Wagner family, came out to greet us. She served us their exquisite offerings while describing each one with care. For five generations now, the Wagner family has been cultivating steep-slate Riesling vineyards in the Saar River Valley. Their commitment is evident in every bottle they produce—painstaking manual work that honors their heritage. Some of their vines are 120 years old and have never been grafted! 

The Saar River

Wagner Winery

After a buoyant wine tasting, Christianne invited us to tour the cellars where wine is stored and aged. Each room was lined with traditional oak barrels, each holding its own story. This authentic aging method reflects their commitment to quality, resulting in many award-winning wines. Wandering through the labyrinth of corridors was a trip in itself. 

Saarburg

Strolling the narrow streets of Saarburg felt like stepping into a fairytale or a page from The Hobbit. A small river flowed gracefully through the center of town, culminating into a cascading waterfall created by a 13th-century project to redirect the river to power water wheels for mills—some of which still function today. Overlooking the town is the ruined castle built by Graf Siegfried of Luxembourg in 964, offering breathtaking views of the Saar River and echoes of the past. Saarburg's town charter dates to 1291, reflecting this deep-rooted history. As we wandered, the air was filled with scents of flowers and aged wood; the sound of rushing water; the creak of an old water wheel. Another highlight in town is the Glockengießerei Mabilion, an old bell foundry that produced world-class bronze bells for centuries. It’s a museum now. Tomorrow morning we had plans to tour it, but for now… It was time to head back to the Princesse Royal for a nightcap.

To be continued...

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